Polar Slot Cover Belt Installation Instructions.

These instructions only apply to our Green Belt part numbers GB-434, GB-431, GB-437 and GB-438.

Tools required:

  • 5mm hex bit socket, extension, and ratchet
  • 5mm hex ball-end screwdriver
  • 6mm Allen hex key
  • 7mm open end or box wrench
  • 10mm short open end wrench, about 4" long is best
  • 13mm box wrench
  • 17mm shallow socket, long extension, and ratchet
  • 19mm open end or box wrench
  • Slotted screwdriver, possibly a Phillips too
  • WD-40 or equivalent
  • Shop towels
  • Magnetic work light

Old Belt Removal:

  1. Run the backgauge to about 10" from the rear of the bed.
  2. Disconnect the power to the cutter.
  3. Remove both drip pans below the lead screw.  The rear one lifts up and slides out, the front one is screwed to the frame.
  4. Remove the two center backgauge spring-support screws and springs.
  5. Remove the center backgauge rake, unbolt using a shallow 17mm socket through the rear holes.
  6. Loosen the rear cable roller mounting screws about 10 turns each, to loosen the old belt.
  7. Remove the clamping plate and two screws from the belt at the backgauge, usually with a 7mm wrench.
  8. Pull out the old belt, downward onto floor from underneath the cutter.
  9. Also, pull the belt and wire-cable through the table support frame, to the rear of the cutter for easy access.
  10. Remove the 2 clamping plates and cable from the belt, four screws, nuts and washers.  If the original plastic clamping plates are cracked or damaged consider replacing them with our steel clamping plates, part numbers GB-405 and GB-406.
  11. At the other end of the wire-cable, there's a tension-adjusting nut, and it's a great idea to push that stud out of it's hole, and down where you can WD-40 the threads and free up the nut for easy adjustment later.
  12.   Adjust the nut closer to the end of the threaded stud, and pull the cable to bring the stud back into it's hole.

New Belt Installation:

  1. Disconnect the power to the paper cutter.
  2. Spray WD-40 into the sides of the two front rollers, and wipe them clean.
  3. Use rags to clean the areas around the front belt roller assembly.
  4. Attach the clamping plates and four screws to the belt and wire-cable.
  5. Push the belt through the table support frame, toward the front of the cutter, on the floor.
  6. Check that the wire-cable is still wrapped correctly around the rear cable roller.
  7. Push the free end of the belt up through the front roller assembly, and onto the top of the table.
  8. Check that the belt and wire-cable are not twisted under the bed.
  9. Pull the edge of the belt up to the front clamping plate.
  10. Loosely attach the top clamping plate and two screws.
  11. Pull the belt straight into it's slot, and tighten the two clamping plate screws.
  12. The belt should now be mounted, but loose.
  13. Through the slot at the rear of the bed, reach down with your hand and push the wire-cable and stud inward to tension the belt, while tightening the hidden cable tensioner nut with your other hand.
  14. The belt should now be mounted, and slightly snug.
  15. Final tensioning can be done by tightening the two Allen screws on the rear wire-cable roller.
  16. Only tighten the screws far enough to make the belt lay flat at the front roller assembly.
  17.  It's okay if they are not screwed down tight, they won't back out.
  18. Re-mount the center backgauge rake using a shallow 17mm socket through the rear holes.
  19. Re-mount the two center backgauge spring-support screws and springs.
  20. Re-mount both drip pans.

Adjustment of The Front Roller Assembly: (You may need to loosen the screws on the rear wire-cable roller again, and/or the wire-cable threaded stud.)

  1. Discount the cutter from the power source.
  2. On the left side of the cutter, you will need to crawl under the bed to work on the front roller assembly.
  3. Loosen the 6mm head Allen bolt (it points down), the 13mm hex head bolt (it also points down), and the 10mm locknut (it's horizontal).
  4. There are two adjusters:
  5.    A) The 19mm hex adjuster above the 13mm head locking bolt is an eccentric which centers the belt in the slot.  It should be turned to the point where it feels easiest to turn.
  6.    B) The 10mm hex head adjusting screw changes the roller angle so that both edges of the belt lay flat when tensioned.
  7. (You may again need to adjust the screws on the rear wire-cable roller, and/or the wire-cable threaded stud.)
  8. Once the belt is straight and centered, you can tighten the 6mm head Allen bolt, the 13mm hex head bolt, and the 10mm locknut.
  9. Then re-tension the belt again until it lays flat again at the front.